Strictly Ballroom

Resplendent Natural Pearl, Diamond and Verneuil Ruby Bracelet, c. 1905

€ 8,490.00 ^*

Content 1 piece

Incl. VAT, Shipping

Resplendent Natural Pearl, Diamond and Verneuil Ruby Bracelet, c. 1905

Description

This description was automatically translated from German. If you have any questions about this piece of jewellery, we will be happy to help!

This bracelet is a magnificent sight. Voluminous links of velvety shining gold lead to a sparkling centerpiece, the front of which is covered in silver. Strips of rose diamonds nestle around large old cuts that hold an equally precious treasure at their center: a natural pearl. In a time when every real pearl had to be retrieved by divers, pearls were sometimes just as expensive as diamonds - and, like diamonds, were staged as the centerpiece of fine jewels. To make the pearl stand out even more visually, a modern technical trick was used: it was surrounded by a frame of suitably cut rubies. This technique, in which stones are cut in such a way that they fill predetermined shapes almost exactly and look like a colored band, became popular at the beginning of the 20th century. The rubies themselves are just as modern, as they are synthetic gemstones produced in the laboratory. The first synthetic rubies were launched in 1902 and quickly became the "dernier cri", being set in luxurious diamond jewellery, just like natural rubies. The bracelet is an exciting piece between tradition and modernity. The natural pearl and the precious diamonds are very much in the tradition of the finest 19th century jewellery. The use of silver on a gold base also follows the tradition of European goldsmithing. The art of the suitably cut stones and the Verneuil rubies, on the other hand, represent the modern avant-garde. A beautiful and luxurious jewel has been created from the harmony of retrospection and new beginnings. At the time of its creation, it was part of the evening wardrobe of a wealthy lady. Which ballrooms might it have seen, which opera premieres was it present at? This is not the first time we have wished that antique jewels could speak...

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Beautiful, large rubies have always been among the most sought-after rarities among gemstones. To remedy the shortage, early experiments were carried out with imitations of this bright cherry-red gemstone. The excitement was correspondingly great when the first synthetic - not reconstructed - rubies created by Verneuil became commercially available in 1902. As late as 1918, it was said: "An absolutely reliable distinguishing feature does not yet seem to have been found to distinguish synthetic rubies from natural ones". In fact, goldsmiths suddenly had every conceivable shade of red at their disposal - "from dark Siam ruby to light pink ruby" - and this was not dependent on lucky finds. Just like natural rubies, synthetic rubies were set alongside diamonds in precious metal settings, and this ring is another example of this development. For the history of ruby synthesis, see Jaqcues Boyer: The synthetic gemstones. Their history, manufacture and properties, Berlin 1918, cf. here, the quotes above, ibid. p. 39.

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Size & Details

Strictly Ballroom

€ 8,490.00 ^*

Content 1 piece

Incl. VAT, Shipping

Our Promise

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trade organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within one month and we will refund the full purchase price.

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