House of Bolin

Retro Style Clip With Untreated Burma Rubies & Diamonds, W.A. Bolin, Stockholm 1940

€ 10,890.00 ^*

Content 1 piece

Incl. VAT, Shipping

Retro Style Clip With Untreated Burma Rubies & Diamonds, W.A. Bolin, Stockholm 1940

Description

This description was automatically translated from German. If you have any questions about this piece of jewellery, we will be happy to help!

Sometimes we come across pieces that already make us think of a big name due to their exquisite materials and craftsmanship. This extravagant clip brooch, which has found its way to us from Hamburg, is one of them: With a wonderful setting of untreated rubies and glittering diamonds in solid gold, it combines some of the most luxurious materials in the jewellery world. The bold yet highly elegant design in the so-called Retro style solidifies the impression that a master of jewellery art must have been at work. A look at the back, where the hallmarks are hidden, soon confirms this premonition. In fact, the hallmark on this piece of jewellery indicates that it belongs to one of the most prestigious families of goldsmiths in the world: It is a work of the jeweller W. A. Bolin. Founded in 1790 by a Swede in the former Russian capital of St. Petersburg, Bolin, also known as the “House of Bolin” in English-speaking countries, was the court jeweller to five Russian tsars and three Swedish kings throughout its history. In 1916, a year before the Russian Revolution, the Bolin family moved the headquarters of their company to Stockholm, where it is still located in the noble Östermalm. Always on the cutting edge, the House of Bolin supplied the upper class of Europe’s metropolises and is mentioned in the same breath as Fabergé, whom it was considered to be a great rival of. As early as 1851, at the great exhibition at the Crystal Palace in London, one observer was carried away by the statement: “Mr. Bolin’s objects, with their perfect mountings, surpassed absolutely everything else at the exhibition.” Even today, Bolin’s works adorn the crowned heads of Europe. For example, the so-called “Vladimir Tiara” made by Bolin and brought to England by adventurous means is one of the favourite pieces of Queen Elizabeth II, and Bolin still supplies the Swedish royal family today. Thanks to Sweden’s accurate hallmarking system, we are able to date the brooch precisely to 1940. With its abstract draped design, warmly shimmering yellow gold, and diamond and ruby setting, this brooch speaks the formal language of the first half of the 1940s. The brooch is shown in the form of a stylised leaf, accompanied on the side by a delicious panicle of fruit. Like currants, five natural rubies shimmer here in intense red. Some of the untreated stones are even star rubies, over the surface of which a six-rayed star wanders when the light falls on it. An elegantly pierced arch with gold bars appears like a winding vine and gives the piece of jewellery a surprising modernity. We have had the value and quality of the materials used certified by an independent gemological institute. But, of course, this estimate does not take into account the exclusive origin of the piece of jewellery, which may represent the even greater attraction for collectors. Thus, this is a first-class unique piece with history - from a renowned house from which antique jewellery is rarely offered. The above quotation, as well as further information on the House of Bolin, can be found in Géza von Habsburg: Fabergé. Imperial Craftsman and His World, London 2000, p. 228 f. and 318 f.

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One of the most beautiful and typical pieces of Art Deco jewellery is the clip. Extravagant, precious, usually set with diamonds, Cartier, Boucheron, and Van Cleef & Arpels produced them in Paris from the late 1920s, and soon the goldsmiths of the whole world followed suit. What was special about this new type of brooch was that it could no longer be worn only on the lapel, but anywhere on the dress, on the belt, on the bag, and even in the hair. Often worn as a pair, but also gladly individually, it could set surprising accents that had not been possible before. At the time of their introduction, the shape of the clips was initially flat, with surfaces richly set with diamonds. In the course of the 1930s, more voluminous, geometric shapes came into fashion. Also, yellow gold again replaced the previously favoured white gold, in line with the general trend of Art Deco. One last innovation before the upheaval of the Great War was the redesign of the back holder towards the end of the 1930s. Whereas previously there had been a single large plate with a spring mechanism, now two interconnected pins were used. On the history of the clip, see David Bennett/Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewellery, Woodbridge 2010, pp. 322-325, with numerous illustrations.

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Size & Details

House of Bolin

€ 10,890.00 ^*

Content 1 piece

Incl. VAT, Shipping

Our Promise

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trade organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within one month and we will refund the full purchase price.

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House of Bolin

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