Forbidden Fruit

Magnificent Garnet Parure Comprised of a Necklace, Brooch & Earrings, c. 1835

€ 18,900.00 ^*

Content 1 piece

Incl. VAT, Shipping

Magnificent Garnet Parure Comprised of a Necklace, Brooch & Earrings, c. 1835

Description

This description was automatically translated from German. If you have any questions about this piece of jewellery, we will be happy to help!

Garnets cut into cabochons glow red like apples of paradise amidst golden leaves and tendrils. Settings with inlaid gold foils lend them a deep, glowing shine. Each of the three-dimensional leaves is finely structured; the neo-baroque volutes, on the other hand, curve smoothly and sculpturally towards the viewer. It is a seductively luminous, shimmering garden that confronts us in the form of a sumptuous suite of necklace, brooch and earrings. Parures with dark red glowing garnets in textured gold were worn from the 1830s to the 1850s. The pieces shown here were created at the beginning of this fashion. This is shown on the one hand by the small beaded ornaments, whose aesthetic is reminiscent of the cannetille work of the 1820s and which is still used subtly here. The Victoria & Albert Museum houses a similarly crafted English demi-parure from around 1835 (Inv. no. M.265 to C-1919). However, the brooch was not always part of the set. It was originally the clasp of a matching bracelet. In earlier times, however, it was changed into a brooch: For this purpose, three matching pendulums, either taken from the necklace or from an original but irreparable brooch, were tinned onto the previous clasp. The resulting girandole shape is historically correct, however. The age of the almost 200-year-old parure can also be seen in changes such as these. Necklace and earrings have always been part of the set. In combination, jewellery like this was reserved for particularly important, high-ranking events. For instance, a Lady Langsdale wore a dress made of rich white satin embroidered with golden flowers for Queen Victoria's birthday in 1838, accompanied by "carbuncles, richly set in gold; necklace and earrings en suite." The name "carbuncle", from the Latin "carbunculus" for glowing embers, was the common name for garnets cut into cabochons. We had an antique case lined with dark red velvet to match the magnificent parure. We discovered the suite in Paris. However, judging by its design language and the historical sources, it was created in Great Britain, probably in the second half of the 1830s. The quotation from [Anon:] Her Majesty's Drawing Room, in: Supplement to the Court Gazette and Fashionable Guide, May 19, 1838, p. 5.

Size & Details

Forbidden Fruit

€ 18,900.00 ^*

Content 1 piece

Incl. VAT, Shipping

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